Tips for Beginners and Pro's

The two main components of surfing are paddling out and dropping in. While there is definitely a lot more to surfing, these are two things to master. The best way to learn how to surf is first hand, so after reading this article, go out there and surf, surf, surf!

When paddling out to surf, you have a few different choices to make. You can ditch your board, paddle over the top, dive early or try to paddle under the lip. Deciding what to do is all just a matter of experience. When paddling out, always charge straight at the wave as hard as you can. Even if you think you're going to get beat by the wave, just keep paddling straight toward the wave. The wave is moving toward you, so if you keep moving toward it, you will be surprised at how quickly you can get there, and possible even slip right under the lip.

The trick to piercing an already broken wave is depth. You need to get below the broken water of the wave into the calm water below and keep swimming forward. The deeper you can get under the wave, the safer you will be from the force of the breaking wave. Duck dive deep, or ditch your surfboard and dive down. As the wave passes over you, push off with your feet and streamline your body. As soon as you break the surface, get back on your surfboard and paddle like crazy.

When dropping in on a wave while surfing, always remember that where your head goes, your body follows. Lead with your head. If you want to go down the face of the wave, you have to keep your head down. Stretch your neck, put your chin near the deck of your surfboard, and hurl your every thought and inspiration down the face of the wave as you paddle. Only when you are sure you are sliding down the face of the wave should you slide lithely to your feet and start dealing with your bottom turn.

Learn to Surf: Surfing Basics In One Day

The first thing you need is the right surfboard. Most people make the mistake of trying to learn how to surf on a board that is too short. They see pros riding short boards and think that's what they need. This is wrong and will only make you frustrated and give up trying to learn.
Make sure you get a surfboard that is a least 9' long. You want it to be thick and wide as this will insure it's buoyant and stable. A good choice for learning are those soft-top boards that are...are like giant Boogie Boards.

Practice these first steps on the sand before you get in the water:

1. Lay the board with it's fin, (or skeg), down in the sand so the top, (or deck), is facing up.

2. Lay on the board on your stomach so your head is about 2/3 of the way towards the front, (or nose), of the board. Since you will spend a lot of time laying on your board you should invest in a rash guard or other UV protective surf shirt such as a StayDry Shirt to protect your stomach from getting a rash and your back from getting sunburned.

3. This next part is done all in one, quick motion: bring your hands up near your chest and grab the sides of the board then jump up and bring your feet up to where your hands are so you are now crouched on your feet and holding the board. Be sure you bring your feet up and under you so you are on your feet near the center of the board and that one foot is ahead of the other, (which foot is up to you).

4. Slowly stand upright as you bring your arms out to the sides for balance. Be sure to keep your knees bent.

Practice this technique,(called a 'pop-up'), until you can quickly and smoothly jump to your feet in one motion.

Now you're ready to hit the water.

Go to a beach that either has small, gentle waves or lots of whitewater you can ride on. Whitewater, (or soup), is the water that rolls towards the shore after a wave has broken. It's the best place for learning as it will be easier to catch when you paddle. You can also have someone stand in the whitewater and push you into the wave while you lay on the board.

Enter the water pointing the nose towards the waves and lay on your board.

IMPORTANT: You want to lay on the board so that the nose of the board doesn't dip into the water OR point up out of the water too high. When you start to paddle you want the nose to be parallel with the water, just skimming the surface.

To paddle keep your head up, your legs together on the board and cup your hands as you reach out into the water and draw them back along the sides of the board. Bring them out of the water down by your hips smoothly and without a lot of splash.

Once you're out and white water is coming towards you turn and point your board towards the shore, lay in the correct spot, (nose skimming the water) and start paddling. When you feel the wave pick you up and start to push you without you having to paddle you're ready to 'pop-up', (see step #3).

It will take some practice but by the end of the day you'll have a lot of fun, get a great workout and be surfing. Just get yourself a rash guard and some board shorts and you'll be a total surfer, dude!

Surfing Wetsuits 101

Winter is a fact of life for many people who enjoy the sport of surfing. However, cold air and water temperatures don't have to stop your sessions! Enter the wetsuit, probably the single biggest invention in surfing since the surfboard itself.

Wetsuits are tight fitting bodysuits made of flexible neoprene rubber. They work by trapping a thin layer of water between the neoprene and the skin. The body heats up this water, thus keeping the surfer warm.

When picking out a suit, you're going to want to get one that is specifically designed for surfing. That means seeking out your local surf shop. Don't go to a dive shop or swimming store. Surfing wetsuits are specially made to endure the specific repetitive motions that surfers make when they're out in the ocean. For example, non-surfing suits can have seams in bad places that will cause major rashes when you've been paddling for a few hours.

Wetsuits come in different cuts, from short-sleeve spring suits (or shorties) to fullsuits with hoods. When it gets very cold, booties and gloves are also available. Caps and hoods are also available for suits that don't have them already attached.

Surfers often have a quiver of wetsuits to accompany their quiver of different boards, especially in areas where the seasons change dramatically.

There are a variety of thicknesses from which to choose. From thin 2 mm spring suits, to 2/3 mm fullsuits, 4/3's, 5/4/3's, and 6/5/4's. These numbers reference how thick the neoprene is in millimeters for different areas of the suit. Often the thickest neoprene will be in the torso and thighs, while the thinner areas will be on the arms and calves.

When getting a wetsuit, it's important to set aside a block of time in order to try them on. Each company uses different models and they all have a slightly different fit.

The fit should be snug. Don't buy them too loose or water will be able to freely enter the suit and the insulating effect will be lost. This means you shouldn't buy a kid's suit a few sizes too big so they can grow into it. They might as well not wear a suit at all. The neck is an important area to pay attention to. The collar should be snug so that water doesn't freely enter and exit.

When looking at the pricetag, you do tend to get what you pay for. There are several different makes and models from each company, from budget to luxury. Often the higher priced wetsuits will have all sorts of cool things like sealed seams and improved zippers and entry/exit schemes.

The History Of Surfing

In the early 1900's the Hawaiians organized the Hui Nalu (surf club) and competed in neighborly surf competitions with the Outrigger Canoe Club. This drew a great deal of attention to the Waikiki surf shore, bringing a revitalized interest in the sport, which had fallen out of favor in the late 1800s. Duke Kahanamoku, an Olympic star in swimming, popularized the sport further by traveling internationally and showing off his surfing style to thrilled audiences around the world. He was favored by Hollywood elite; having acted in bit parts in films and was always recruiting new surfers wherever he went. He is credited with surfing the longest wave of all time in 1917, in the popular surfing area now called Outside Castles in Waikiki. His 1000 meters plus wave record has yet to be overtaken.

In the 1930s, the sport of surfing was experiencing a Renaissance. Tom Blake, founder of the Pacific Coast Surf Championships that ended with the onset of war in 1941, was the first man to photograph surfing from the water. Another photographer and surfer named Doc Ball published California Surfriders 1946, which depicts the pristine coastal beaches and good-time, relaxed atmosphere of surf living. Surfing, although curtailed in the aftermath of WWII, revived as always by the 1950s. Bud Browne, an accomplished surfer and waterman, created the first 'surf movie' with his 1953 "Hawaiian Surfing Movie". This inspired many photographers, filmmakers and surfers to continue documenting the sport, culminating with is arguably the best surf movie of all time, 1963's "Endless Summer" by Bruce Brown. The film opened up the genre of the surf movie and the art of surfing to non-surfing people, accumulating fans and inspiring neophytes.

Although surfing was a male-dominated sport, adventurous women surfers can be seen all the way back to the times of the Polynesian Queens. Two notable 'surfer girls' were Eve Fletcher and Anona Napolean. Eve Fletcher was a California-born animator for Walt Disney and Anona Napolean was the daughter of a respected Hawaiian surfing family. The two pioneered the sport for modern women, winning surfing competitions up and down the California coast at the end of the 50s and into the 60s. Hollywood was quick to be on the scene and with the 1959 film "Gidget", surfing was flung far out into the mainstream, never to return to its humble, ritualistic beginnings. "Gidget" inspired a slew of "Beach Blanket Bingo" movies that brought surfing to a new generation of teens and inspiring a new genre of 'surf music' that accompanied films and made The Beach Boys more famous than Elvis in the 60s.

Surfing spread throughout all media and Surfing Magazine was born in the early 1960s by famous surf photographer, LeRoy Grannis. After that, other publications cropped up bringing more information on the sport, equipment and stars of the surfing scene. John Severson, an accomplished filmmaker and photographer, created Surfer Magazine, originally called "The Surfer". These publications brought advertising, professional surfing, surf culture and publicity to the now very popularized sport.

What Kind of Surfboard Should I Get?

When learning to surf, the type of surfboard you learn on is very important. Most people learning to surf grab a thruster or another type of short-board. This is not ideal. Shortboards are made to be easily moved around on a wave, which makes them quite unstable for a beginner. A long, wide, stable board is what you need to learn on. This will make you improve your surfing much faster. To learn to surf, an ideal board would be 8-10 feet, if your under 15, stick to around 8 foot. These boards are ideal to learn to surf on.

There are also soft top boards available now, which are even more ideal. Also, Bic mals and minimals are great for learning, as they're a bit safer. This is because they are not made out of fiberglass.

So where can you get your first board?

Check out your local surf shops. Find a good secondhand board, you don't need a new one to start with. You can also check online auctions, which often have good bargains. A few dings are fine in your first board, but make sure the fiberglass isn't cracked right through, or the board will begin to fill with water, making it heavy and unable to float so well. Ensure the board is water-tight.

How to Surf: Learn How to Surf

Surfing is a popular sport. It's great because anywhere there are waves, chances are people surf them in one form or another. This blog focuses on stand-up surfing, not body boarding!

So you want to learn to surf?

First off: equipment. What will you need to start surfing?

Depending on the climate and water temperature in your area, you may need a wetsuit. Test the water first, you might be able to get away with board-shorts, but I would recommend a rash vest also. Wetsuits come in two main varieties, short-sleeved and long-sleeved. Short sleeved wetsuits are commonly known as "spring-suits" and long-sleeved are commonly called "steamers". The arms of the suit generally are thinner than the rest, allowing the freedom to paddle the board. Spring suits give greater freedom, as the sleeves only come down to just above the elbow. Make sure your wetsuit fits well, otherwise you could get rashes in all sorts of places!

The next piece of equipment you will need to learn to surf is a surfboard. I know you probably already have one, but chances are it's not quite right. Everyone wants to ride a cool-looking short board, but for learning to surf you should try and find yourself a longer board. The ideal boards to learn to surf on would be 8-9 ft, and wider than usual. This allows greater stability. You can also find soft-top boards which are even more ideal. Often you can hire these boards near your local beach, but if not, try and borrow someones mal. In case you don't know, a mal is short for "malibu" - a long board with a rounded nose, usually around 9 ft long. I also recommend a leg-rope, because sooner or later your going to need one, and you don't want to be chasing your board around all the time when you could be catching more waves!

Unless the board you are using is a soft-top, or fully covered in deck-grip, you will need some surf-wax. Surf wax can be purchased at your local surf-shop. Be sure to get wax for your water temperature, as otherwise the wax can melt off or become slippery.

Ok... so your fully decked out in your wettie, got your board and it's all waxed up and ready to go!

So where to begin learning to surf? Out the back?

Not quite. When learning to surf you have to begin where everyone else does. In the whitewater. In the early stages of your surfing career this is definately the place to be. It is where everyone starts, even Kelly Slater or Andy Irons.

Before you hit the water, draw an outline of a surfboard on the sand, and lay on it. Practice paddling the board and jumping up quickly, all in one motion. You will notice that it is more natural to have one of your feet forward than the other. By forward, I mean closest to the nose of the board. If it is more natural to have your left foot closest to the nose, you are called a "natural-footer" whereas if your right foot is forward, you are deemed a "goofy-footer". Practice this motion over and over again. Paddling the board, and jumping straight onto both feet as quick as possible. This is the key to surfing, and where many beginners fail. It may seem easier to jump up on one knee first, but this is NOT ideal. This method will be too slow when your surfing advances, and you will have to learn to stand up all over again. It's like learning to walk.

Once you are confident, you can advance to the water. Please, know your limits. DO NOT go out too far, even if you are a confident swimmer. You should always learn to read the water before you even start surfing. You should be a confident swimmer, and know the dangers and how to spot them.

Start in the whitewater, practice paddling your board and catching waves to start with. When paddling, try and get the board "planing", that is, not having the nose of your board either under water, or sticking out too far. The nose of your board should be out of the water, just enough so the board sits nicely on the water. This makes the board easy to paddle, and you can get more speed, making it easier to catch waves. Once you are confident and can catch waves easily, you can attempt to stand up on your board. You WILL fall off, and that is ok. Practice jumping up in one motion, standing side on and keeping the board planing if possible. This is the best way to fast-track your surfing and have you ripping out the back in no-time!

You will need to do this many times before you get it. Also practice paddling for waves, getting as much speed as possible, and jumping up as quickly as you can. Another great thing to do is to practice sitting on your board when your in the water... you'll need to do a lot of this later on, and it also improves your balance.

How to Paddle

Paddling your surfboard is an important step in learning to surf. Stronger paddlers generally catch more waves than less stronger paddlers and therefore turn into better surfers. It is very important to be a good paddler, not only because it allows you to catch more waves but also for your own safety. Being a good paddler can only be to your advantage. Often it is only the best paddlers that make it out the back. The weaker paddlers often get pushed back towards the shore and never get beyond the breaking waves.

Also, when it is busy, it is often only the best paddlers that catch the waves, because everyone else is too slow. The best paddlers can claim their waves faster than everyone else. If you are a below average paddler, it is often very hard to even get a wave when the line up is busy.

One of the most important parts of paddling a surfboard is your position on the board. When learning to surf, it is very common to see beginner surfers paddling the board incorrectly due to incorrect positioning on the board. The board needs to plane across the water when you paddle it. This usually means the nose of the board comes out of the water about two inches. Your body should always be centered on the board. If you are riding a long board your feet should be on the board, if you are riding a short board your feet should be slightly raised off the board while you paddle.

Body position is all important while paddling the board. To keep it planing you need to be far enough back so that the nose doesn't dip under water, as this makes it extremely difficult to paddle. You also don't want the nose of the board sticking out too far, this just makes you look stupid, and also difficult to paddle. While beginning to paddle, a common method to make things slightly easier is to move your feet apart, just enough to make it easier to balance.

Your paddling strokes should be similar to swimming freestyle. You do not need to go quite as deep as you would when swimming though. Just pull yourself through the water as fast as you can while still keeping your balance. Always keep the board planing, don't let the nose dip under or stick out too far. This will make your paddling much more efficient and easier for you. Spending time swimming while your not surfing can also improve your paddling strength and endurance,your going to need it. Practice paddling as often as you can and you will be rewarded with great paddling strength, meaning you will catch more waves than everyone else!

How to Catch Waves

So you want to catch your first wave... You've come to the right place!

You can't surf without catching waves first. Being able to catch waves, especially good waves, is a very important skill to learn. The more waves you can catch, the better surfer you will become. You will notice that the best surfers in your area are the ones that catch the most waves. So put in the practice, and start catching more waves than everyone else.

In order to fast-track your surfing development, it is very important to practice jumping to your feet as quickly as possible. This move takes you from lying on your board to the standing position and is often called the 'pop-up'. While you learn to surf, you should practice this move as often as possible. Most people recommend practicing on the sand, but you don't necessarily have to. You can practice it anywhere, but make sure you do it often!

To pop up, start from the lying position, do a couple of practice paddle strokes for effect, and then use your arms to push you up to a standing position as quickly as you can. This also builds arm strength which always comes in handy while surfing. By practicing this move as often as possible, this should mean you can go straight out surfing more often, rather than only practicing before each surf. It also means you are less likely to skip your 'pop-up practice' because you would have already done it.

To begin riding waves, you firstly need to walk your board out. As simple as this sounds, it still takes practice. Many people are put of surfing all together in this step, as even little waves can be powerful enough to knock the board up and into your face or body. To walk the board out, you hold onto the rails of your board. If you are right handed, have your board to the right of your body at your side, holding onto each rail with both hands. This should prevent injury. When a wave comes, tilt your board upwards so the nose of your board goes over the top of the wave, and jump towards the wave. This shouldn't take too much practice as it is almost a natural reaction. Always go over a wave straight on! Never hit the wave at an angle.

Always ensure that no-one is behind you while you catch your first wave. You do not want to hit anyone with your board. It is always scary seeing in inexperienced surfer flying towards you.

To catch your very first waves, you only want to be in waist-deep water. When you see a wave you want to catch, turn around and paddle the board towards the shore as fast as you can. Try and keep the board planing, meaning you are using proper paddling technique. As the wave hits you and begins pushing you towards the shore, take a couple more paddle-strokes, grab the sides of your board, then push yourself slightly back on your board. This last move prevents you from nose-diving. You don't want to push yourself too far back, just enough adjustment to prevent nose-diving and keep on the wave. You should be able to ride the wave for at least 5 seconds.

Surfing's Basic Rules

These are the guidelines you should always follow while surfing. I have written them with the intention of keeping you all safe. They are all relevant, and will not only keep you safe but may stop you from injuring others or damaging your own equipment. Always follow these rules... no exceptions!

Rules of Surfing:

• Don't Drink and Surf. Surfing while drunk is not a good idea. Or drugs for that matter. Save the drinking for after your surf. It's much safer and much more rewarding. It gives you something to look forward to after your surf and keeps you steady on your feet. Not only that but you can always talk it up with your mates over a few cold ones after.
  
• Be Aware. You must always be aware of other surfers and water users, the surf conditions, and of where you are surfing. Surfing in familiar territory always helps.
  
• Comfort Zone. Always stay within your comfort zone. Don't push yourself too far, especially when starting out and learning to surf. This is one of the most important rules! Always stay in waves you are comfortable in and if in doubt, stay out.
  
• Strength and Fitness. Make sure you are a strong enough paddler and are physically fit enough to surf. Get fit and spend time in the pool if you need to. You may need all the strength you have at some stage.
  
• Don't Eat and Surf. You don't want to sink. Don't make the mistake of eating and surfing. Allow at least 45 minutes from the time you last ate before going out.
  
• Know When to Bail. Know when to hold onto your surfboard and when to bail out. If you are paddling out then keep hold of your board, you'll get out back to the line up more quickly and you will not put anyone paddling out behind you at risk. If you are about to wipe-out then get rid of your board. You are far more likely to sustain an injury if you and your board are getting washed around together.
• Patrolled Beaches. If you are surfing on a patrolled beach make sure that you keep within the designated surfing area. Take note of where you should be surfing before you go out, and make sure you stick to it when you are out. You don't want to endanger others.
  
• Don't Drop In. Never take someone else's wave. This is basic surfing etiquette and will save you a lot of trouble. Especially if you are surfing someone else's beach. The general rule is, the surfer closest to the breaking part of the wave has control of the wave. Hence the term "dropping in". In surfing contests, dropping in is heavily penalized. People often react very badly to being dropped in on. It is dangerous.
  
• Practice makes Perfect. If you want to improve then you need to be in the water surfing as much as you can. No-one got any better at anything by staying home and watching TV. Non-surfing activities are also great for fitness which will always help your surfing.
  
• Respect. Respect the locals if you are visiting a beach. Remember that you are a guest and that waves should be shared. Also, always respect visitors to your beach. Sharing waves keeps everyone happy.
  
• Rips. Hopefully you already know that a rip is a strong current that (generally) goes straight out to sea. If caught in one, DO NOT panic. Paddle across the rip untill you have escaped. You must know how to spot a rip before ever attempting to surf.
  
• Sun. The sun is much stronger when out surfing as it not only hits you from above, but also reflects off the water. The sun will tire you out and dehydrate you. The sun will burn you. Always wear sun-block.
  
• Never Surf Alone. Always surf with someone else. Especially when learning. The ocean can be very dangerous and unpredictable. You have more fun surfing with someone else, always have someone to talk to and most importantly "proof" that you scored the waves you tell everyone about!
  
• Surf Conditions. Make sure that the surf is safe before you go in. If you are going surfing at a spot you are unfamiliar with it is a good idea to get some advice from a local. Check out the surf spot while warming up.
• Warm-up. Always have a quick warm-up and stretch before entering the surf. This will reduce the risk of muscle injury or cramp whilst you are surfing. It also gives you time to check for any rips or where the best spot to catch waves is.

How to Surf

Surfing is a popular sport. It's great because anywhere there are waves, chances are people surf them in one form or another. This blog focuses on stand-up surfing, not body boarding!

So you want to learn to surf?

First off: equipment. What will you need to start surfing?

Depending on the climate and water temperature in your area, you may need a wetsuit. Test the water first, you might be able to get away with board-shorts, but I would recommend a rash vest also. Wetsuits come in two main varieties, short-sleeved and long-sleeved. Short sleeved wetsuits are commonly known as "spring-suits" and long-sleeved are commonly called "steamers". The arms of the suit generally are thinner than the rest, allowing the freedom to paddle the board. Spring suits give greater freedom, as the sleeves only come down to just above the elbow. Make sure your wetsuit fits well, otherwise you could get rashes in all sorts of places!

The next piece of equipment you will need to learn to surf is a surfboard. I know you probably already have one, but chances are it's not quite right. Everyone wants to ride a cool-looking short board, but for learning to surf you should try and find yourself a longer board. The ideal boards to learn to surf on would be 8-9 ft, and wider than usual. This allows greater stability. You can also find soft-top boards which are even more ideal. Often you can hire these boards near your local beach, but if not, try and borrow someones mal. In case you don't know, a mal is short for "malibu" - a long board with a rounded nose, usually around 9 ft long. I also recommend a leg-rope, because sooner or later your going to need one, and you don't want to be chasing your board around all the time when you could be catching more waves!

Unless the board you are using is a soft-top, or fully covered in deck-grip, you will need some surf-wax. Surf wax can be purchased at your local surf-shop. Be sure to get wax for your water temperature, as otherwise the wax can melt off or become slippery.

Ok... so your fully decked out in your wettie, got your board and it's all waxed up and ready to go!

So where to begin learning to surf? Out the back?

Not quite. When learning to surf you have to begin where everyone else does. In the whitewater. In the early stages of your surfing career this is definately the place to be. It is where everyone starts, even Kelly Slater or Andy Irons.

Before you hit the water, draw an outline of a surfboard on the sand, and lay on it. Practice paddling the board and jumping up quickly, all in one motion. You will notice that it is more natural to have one of your feet forward than the other. By forward, I mean closest to the nose of the board. If it is more natural to have your left foot closest to the nose, you are called a "natural-footer" whereas if your right foot is forward, you are deemed a "goofy-footer". Practice this motion over and over again. Paddling the board, and jumping straight onto both feet as quick as possible. This is the key to surfing, and where many beginners fail. It may seem easier to jump up on one knee first, but this is NOT ideal. This method will be too slow when your surfing advances, and you will have to learn to stand up all over again. It's like learning to walk.

Once you are confident, you can advance to the water. Please, know your limits. DO NOT go out too far, even if you are a confident swimmer. You should always learn to read the water before you even start surfing. You should be a confident swimmer, and know the dangers and how to spot them.

Start in the whitewater, practice paddling your board and catching waves to start with. When paddling, try and get the board "planing", that is, not having the nose of your board either under water, or sticking out too far. The nose of your board should be out of the water, just enough so the board sits nicely on the water. This makes the board easy to paddle, and you can get more speed, making it easier to catch waves. Once you are confident and can catch waves easily, you can attempt to stand up on your board. You WILL fall off, and that is ok. Practice jumping up in one motion, standing side on and keeping the board planing if possible. This is the best way to fast-track your surfing and have you ripping out the back in no-time!

You will need to do this many times before you get it. Also practice paddling for waves, getting as much speed as possible, and jumping up as quickly as you can. Another great thing to do is to practice sitting on your board when your in the water... you'll need to do a lot of this later on, and it also improves your balance.